Remembering my Italian grandmother stretching out her homemade ravioli dough on the kitchen table has no doubt spoiled me for appreciating anything less than homemade Italian cooking, making my search for good, local Italian restaurants always ongoing.
Lucky me! When leaving the Home Depot parking lot on McKellips Road recently, my husband spotted a little Italian restaurant—Il Forno—tucked into the corner near Dunkin’ Donuts. He stopped and got a to-go menu. A few days later, we ordered their Homemade Spinach Ravioli and a side of Homemade Italian Sausage and Greens. Muolto bene!
The sausage had a slightly chunky texture and just the right amount of seasoning, like the kind we used to get from the old Italian deli in New York. It was served on a bed of fresh spinach sautéed in garlic and olive oil. The ravioli melted in your mouth. It was stuffed with cheeses, fresh sautéed spinach and smothered in a creamy white wine sauce. As good as Nana’s.
We had to go back. The location, 6606 E. McKellips Road, is a little difficult to spot on the west side of the Home Depot shopping center. The inside is intimate, with dark wood paneling offset by large mirrors, soft lighting, Italian pop music and bright red and white checkered tablecloths. There’s also an outdoor patio. A small bar, with comfortable stools, serves a good variety of imported and domestic beers and wine.
As we walked through the room, I noticed delicious looking pizzas with visible chunks of meats and vegetables. Pizza toppings range from the popular to the exotic, such as smoked salmon, grilled eggplant and roasted vegetables. A couple at the bar was enjoying Italian beers and bruschetta. Another table sported wine and fried calamari.
I chatted with Il Forno owner Peter Pizzurro about his new ristorante and wood-fire pizza establishment. Peter’s family has been in the restaurant business for more than 30 years. He started the Café Roma, which used to be at Recker and McKellips roads. Over the years, he opened and sold nine Café Roma establishments. “But now I want a restaurant of my own,” he said.
Peter boasts the fact he makes most of the food himself—the pizza dough, bread, ravioli, sausage, sauces, salad dressings and fabulous desserts, such as Tiramisu, New York Cheesecake and Cannoli. “We use all fresh stuff, even our seafood and meat,” Peter stated with pride. “We buy often, in small quantities, so it’s always the best. It’s quality food, cooked to order. You can even make special requests,” he continued. “If we have the ingredients, we’ll make it up for you. We don’t cook things in advance and freeze them, to reheat when ordered. Except for the tomato sauce, we don’t even make the sauces until a dish is being prepared. All the wine and cream sauces are done individually for each dish.”
Peter insisted I try some specialties. A huge bowl of clams and mussels over linguine, with a peppery marinara sauce, was the best I ever had. The seafood was bite-sized and perfectly cooked, and sauce invaded every shell. The linguini was truly al dente.
Chicken Saltimbocca alla Romana featured tender, juicy breasts sautéed in wine sauce, topped with sage leaves, prosciutto and mozzarella, and served on a bed of fresh spinach. The Mediterranean Salad was topped with huge chunks of artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers and mushrooms, red onions and a host of fresh vegetables, with tasty vinaigrette.
Homemade New York Cheesecake was rich, thick and not too sweet. It was garnished with fresh glazed strawberries, whipped cream, and was surrounded by Vanilla Crème Anglaise.
Il Forno’s prices are quite reasonable, with dinner entrees from $12 to $20, and pizzas about the same. And lunch is even more affordable—take 10 percent off the lunch menu price through July. Happy Hour is from 4 to 6 p.m. daily, with $2 domestic beers, $3.50 imports and half-price appetizers.
Il Forno is open Tuesday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4 to 10 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. For orders or information, call (480) 641-1000.